Rome is one of the most ancient metropolis and has a rich and long past steeped in history.
At the same time the eternal city is contemporary, evolving everyday to give us new nuances and traits of its nature. We want to start a new column about Rome districts, to discover the city neighborhood by neighborhood, exploring venues, alleys and spots that have changed their nature and have turned in something else to offer to the tourists and the Roman citizens new forms of entertainment, new hangouts, new perspectives.
This time we are going to talk about “Rione” Monti.
The first ward or Rione I, as marble street markers installed in the 18th century say, situated between the famous Via Cavour and Via Nazionale, east of the Forum. Even though slightly less known to tourists compared to districts like Campo de’ Fiori, it is arguably even more Roman: a working-class neighborhood in the heart of the old town centre, gentrifying around the edges. It is a place where a knife sharpener still makes monthly rounds even as young entrepreneurs are opening artsy bookstore-cafes, vintage clothing shops, organic markets and galleries.
A former red-light district now the mecca of the Roman coolness. It is not the right place if you are searching for brand stores. Instead it’s all about indie boutiques, small workshops and cozy wine bars, most of which weren’t there four years ago. Once you enter Monti’s sweep of sloping and cobbled lanes, it’s easy to while away an afternoon, an evening, a long weekend…
Shopping lovers can’t miss to stop by Kokoro (75, Via del Boschetto), not only a boutique in the heart of Monti, but also a little workshop and a sort of living room in which each piece is unique and hand-sewn. Plus the shopping is never boring because the selection changes from week to week. Few hundreds meters away, if you are a fashion digger you can’t miss Pifebo Vintage Shop (141 Via dei Serpenti), the real kingdom of vintage in Rome.
For a proper Roman lunch you have definitely to stop at La Taverna dei Fori Imperiali. The grandiose name nicely contrasts with the chilled, sincere nature of the restaurant. La Taverna indeed serves up delicious Roman dishes. Try the “trofie alla puttanesca” (one of my favorite pasta shape dressed with garlic, capers, olives, anchovies, chiles, oregano and olive oil) and the traditional scallops cooked with ham and sage, “saltimbocca alla romana”. The guests of the venue will double ensure you about quality. On the walls plenty of photos from Robert de Niro and Al Pacino, to Lou Reed and Woody Allen.
For the aperitivo time we can go for bruschetta at Full Monti (163 Via dei Serpenti), where you can sip your wine sit on the fountain in Piazza della Madonna dei Monti. If you can’t find room at the picturesque Ai Tre Scalini (251 Via Panisperna), jog along and stop stop at Al Vino al Vino (19 Via dei Serpenti) for reasonably priced wines. At late night, hit-up to Black Market (101 Panisperna) for a good mix between an art gallery, jazz music, cinema, cocktails bar… a real 50’s living room in the heart of the neighborhood. One (snack) for the road? Let’s stroll to check La Crostaceria (26, Via dei Capocci), fancy seafood accompanied with good bubbles.
Monti is changing, but traces of the old neighborhood are everywhere. Ground-floor studios, artisanal workshops and Italian-style boutiques perfectly depict a cross section of a city that seems untouched by time although gentrification is taking place. Between old and new one of the most amazing and lively areas to live in, the charming Monti has managed to retain its character also because of its off the beaten path localization and paradoxically lack of main attractions although inside the historic center. But right this characteristics make Monti a one of a kind district, worthy not only to be seen but also lived and scented.
