It is from the mouth of Stromboli re-emerging star in Journey to the Center of the Earth by Jules Verne. There is perhaps no better testimony to the charm of the volcano Aeolian geology: a little over 900 meters high, in fact most of its mass is submerged and, although it is now almost a century since the last eruption really catastrophic, which drastically reduced the inhabitants of the island, is one of the most active volcanoes on earth.
A three-hour hydrofoil from Milazzo and five from Naples, after a spectacular parade of Aeolian out the window, volcanologists and mountaineers from around the world to climb up to the crater (5-6 hours walking between ascent and descent strictly with guides, daily departures, contact Magma Trek) and enjoy the night show of explosions of ash and lava stones. Iddu however, as they call him the islanders also gives satisfaction to those who remain on the level of the sea.
Just slide your gaze along its slopes, the first colored band of bougainvilleas, lemon trees and prickly pears, the second green reeds and olive trees, unto the third and barren black, scorched by heat and lava. The inexperienced tourist takes a little ‘to understand that there are those clouds that surround the top of the volcano, but puffs of white steam and brown. It does not take long to realize instead because there is no street lighting: the spectacle of the Milky Way on the sea, with occasional fireworks magmatic, speaks for itself.
Bring flashlights, so if you want to stroll in the evening between the hamlets of Stromboli, all easily walkable from the port, Scari, a mere point of arrival rather mediocre, the prettiest Ficogrande, home of the leading hotels, along the homonymous long beach of black sand, to the charming Piscità, which winds around a dead white surrounded by lush bougainvillea.
It’s best to come during the day, and to enjoy the small sandy ash grains with bright and impressive lava rocks, smooth and sinuous.The sea is clean and rocky, with a rich fauna of anemones, sponges, fishes orange, large shrimp and fast counters and shiny edible fish.
Following ladders to climb in oleanders, magnolias and lemons also reach the remote San Bartolo, little more than a square around the church that dominates Piscità, and St. Vincent, the core of the island, where you will find the greatest concentration of shops and Services.
If the scent in the air you have made me hungry, around San Vincenzo, do not miss the spaghetti sardines and fennel and swordfish rolls Il Canneto, the restaurant loved by Napolitano, or spaghetti with chili Strombolian anchovies and capers de La Locanda Bluebeard.
At the port, however, are great stones sea Zurro, former fisherman with charm pirate: ravioli pasta with cuttlefish stuffed with yellowtail (or monkfish), ricotta and lemon zest, topped with capers and cherry tomatoes.
Stromboli gives the illusion of being a self-sufficient community, that most of the supplies, food and non-arrivals from Sicily or mainland remember the prices rather high. Also in San Vincenzo, a beautiful view Ingrid, cafeteria with kitchen so named in honor of Bergman, who turned here with Rossellini Stromboli land of God. Only at that time, in 1949, the island came the electric light. Do not forget only the lights, but the car here only turns in lapa (bee taxi).
It is a return to the fast that infects the new arrivals. Moreover, as almost every island Stromboli also tolerate extravagance, and is home to a natural intellectual pensive with his pipe and tattooed hipsters barefoot. The island climate and the view of Strombolicchio, basaltic rock shaped like a castle with a tower in rough sea horse, the remains of a deceased volcano that rises to 2 km offshore Ficogrande, invite contemplation.
Here the foreign tourists do not seem to the sea, but would islanders. And to know the whole Stromboli is essential to take a boat to Ginostra on the other side of the volcano, which is closer to the Sciara del Fuoco, the canyon still down from where the casting of stones and ashes. Thirty four people and donkeys, a handful of white houses kept glued to the rock by the prickly pears, a marina so small that it is called the pertuso.
It’s exciting to come here at night, allowing sirocco, and stop in front of the lava to watch lava tumbling into the sea. During the day, however, of course, at a safe distance from the coast, you can dive in so-called pools, so called because of the heat of the volcano that heats the water. Meanwhile, Iddu puffing clouds rose and rumbles softly, as if he purred. A Stromboli never alone.
“A must stop in Ginostra, on the side closest to the” Sciara del Fuoco”
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